Lawn tractor transaxle

Lawn tractor transaxle DEFAULT

Lawn tractor transaxle repair??

Gang, I’m not sure if this thread really belongs here, but in my frustration, I’m turning to the GarageJournal….

I have a twelve year old Husqvarna YTH150 lawn tractor. I baby it, clean it, and maintain it, as it’s not that easy for me to drop two grand on a new one these days.

However, it’s giving me trouble, runs fine on flat surface, struggles to get up an incline and a big part of my yard is an incline, so this is a problem.

As I understand it, after time goes by, the aged oil in it can break down, and for the first fifteen minutes or so, it’s fine, but then it gets progressively worse and it will not make it up the incline.

Internet search has not really turned up a lot of info. It’s a sealed unit. Big problem. I read about one guy that drilled and tapped a drain hole and a fill hole, and if you can get the old oil out and replace it with heavier weight oil, you can bring these things back to life. Also sounds like a good way for an amateur like me to turn this machine into a nice boat anchor.

I went to my local shop at lunch and found no help at all, instead I was handed a price list for the new models, telling me after ten years of age, it doesn’t make sense to repair them. That chapped my backside a bit, I just love the “throw it away and buy a new one”, especially when I have taken such good care of this machine.

Can anyone give me any advice or point me in a direction?

Thanks
Rich

 

Sours: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/lawn-tractor-transaxle-repair.150588/

Sears Garden Tractor - Automatic Transaxle Maintenance Tips

Jim BarrettConcerning Craftsman 22 hp Garden Tractor Model no. 917.273080 with Hydro-Gear transaxle no. 222-3010L.

Driven by disappointment in Sears for indicating that the automatic transmission / transaxle requires NO maintenance - and the only out of warranty problem assistance they have offered to this point is to pay $95 / hr. for their Tech to come out and look at the problem, and by the way they stated they only replace problem units, - I decided to contact Hydro-Gear for assistance.

Hydro-Gear's web site is:
http://www.hydro-gear.com/

I called Hydro-Gear (very helpful folks) and was provided the following information.

The recommendation was to change the Transaxle Filter every 2 years, and the Transaxle Oil every year. (for normal conditions) In very dusty or heavy use conditions you may want to change the oil and filter every year.

NOTE: The oil filter is a 40 micron suction canister and MUST NOT be replaced with an engine oil filter. Engine oil filters are pressure canisters and the element will collapse when used on the transaxle resulting in problems.

The following information is is for the 222-3010L Hydro-Gear transaxle.

The factory oil is 10w/40w Mobile motor oil. Any good grade of 10w/40w motor oil will work.

The Transaxle Oil Filter P/N is: 51563

I was directed to W.J.Connell Co. in Foxboro, MA, (800)456-5691 to secure the oil filter. The filter cost about $12.50 + shipping. Delivery was quick.

Drain & Fill Instructions: Drain plug at bottom of Transaxle (allen hex plug). There are two upper plugs, one located on right and one on the left upper sides of the case just above the axle part of the housing. Both are allen hex plugs. It appears the one on the right (shift lever side) is a bit larger and higher than the left plug. Hydro-Gear recommended adding oil in the right side plug and to fill until oil reaches this plug level (about 100 fluid ounces). They noted that either side will work for the fill port and that the oil is supposed to cover the axle - this part of the housing acts as the resivour.

Caution: Use safety precautions during purge opeartion when running engine and wheels lifted off of the ground.

Purge Instructions: Jack up rear wheels, disengage drive-train (set to free-wheel using clip lever), start engine and run at 1/2 throttle, slowly move shift lever from forward to reverse several times, stop engine, engage drive-train (set to lock using freelwheel clip lever), start engine and run at 1/2 throttle, slowly move shift lever from forward to reverse several times until wheels turn without indication of air in hydraulic system.

Hope this information helps you to keep your Automation Transaxle in tip top shape for years to come.


Jim BarrettConcerning Craftsman 22 hp Garden Tractor Model no. 917.273080 with Hydro-Gear transaxle no. 222-3010L.

Driven by disappointment in Sears for indicating that the automatic transmission / transaxle requires NO maintenance - and the only out of warranty problem assistance they have offered to this point is to pay $95 / hr. for their Tech to come out and look at the problem, and by the way they stated they only replace problem units, - I decided to contact Hydro-Gear for assistance.

Hydro-Gear's web site is:
http://www.hydro-gear.com/

I called Hydro-Gear (very helpful folks) and was provided the following information.

The recommendation was to change the Transaxle Filter every 2 years, and the Transaxle Oil every year. (for normal conditions) In very dusty or heavy use conditions you may want to change the oil and filter every year.

NOTE: The oil filter is a 40 micron suction canister and MUST NOT be replaced with an engine oil filter. Engine oil filters are pressure canisters and the element will collapse when used on the transaxle resulting in problems.

The following information is is for the 222-3010L Hydro-Gear transaxle.

The factory oil is 10w/40w Mobile motor oil. Any good grade of 10w/40w motor oil will work.

The Transaxle Oil Filter P/N is: 51563

I was directed to W.J.Connell Co. in Foxboro, MA, (800)456-5691 to secure the oil filter. The filter cost about $12.50 + shipping. Delivery was quick.

Drain & Fill Instructions: Drain plug at bottom of Transaxle (allen hex plug). There are two upper plugs, one located on right and one on the left upper sides of the case just above the axle part of the housing. Both are allen hex plugs. It appears the one on the right (shift lever side) is a bit larger and higher than the left plug. Hydro-Gear recommended adding oil in the right side plug and to fill until oil reaches this plug level (about 100 fluid ounces). They noted that either side will work for the fill port and that the oil is supposed to cover the axle - this part of the housing acts as the resivour.

Caution: Use safety precautions during purge opeartion when running engine and wheels lifted off of the ground.

Purge Instructions: Jack up rear wheels, disengage drive-train (set to free-wheel using clip lever), start engine and run at 1/2 throttle, slowly move shift lever from forward to reverse several times, stop engine, engage drive-train (set to lock using freelwheel clip lever), start engine and run at 1/2 throttle, slowly move shift lever from forward to reverse several times until wheels turn without indication of air in hydraulic system.

Hope this information helps you to keep your Automation Transaxle in tip top shape for years to come.


OllieJim,

It's folks like you who make this ng so worthwhile!

Even though I don't own a Craftsman, I printed it out to keep as I'm sure the hydro-gear transaxle is used in other lawn tractors. I'd even bet that most other transaxles have a similar maintenance requirement.

Thanks!

Ollie


C J BROOKSYOUR POSTING WAS VERY HELPFUL TO ME. I HAVE A CRAFTSMAN 19HP 42" MODEL # 917.270780 THE TRANSAXLE IS A HYDRO GERA UNIT MODEL 319-0650.

WHEN THE UNIT WARMS UP IT SLOWS DOWN, I DO HAVE SOME SMALL SLOPES BUT THIS PROBLEM HAS BEEN GETTING WORSE OVER THE LAST FEW MOWINGS. I HAVE GONE THROUGH THE PURGE EXERCISE SEVERAL TIMES AND THERE ARE TIMES WHEN THE ENGINE IS AT 3/4 THROTLE AND WHEN SHIFTING FROM FORWARD TO REVERSE IT WIMPLY WILL NOT MOVE AT ALL. I WONDER ABOUT THE FLUID LEVEL. IS IT SOMETHING THAT MUST BE CHECKED LIKE AN AUTOMOBILE? AFTER THE UNIT HS COOLED OFF FOR SEVERAL HOURS IT WILL GO AGAIN ONLY TO LOSE POWER AGAIN. I AM NOT IMPRESSED WITH THE RESPONSE I GET FROM SEARS AS I TRY TO ANALYZE THE PROBLEM. I'LL APPRECIATE YOUR RESP0NCE TO MY DILEMMA IF YOU DON'T MIND.
THANKS


RayI had the same problem begin late last year and now my Craftsman is in the shop needing a 500.00 + transaxle change. I wish I would have followed up with the Hydro gear people.
Greg HoffmanDuring a belt change I had to drop the deck of the mower. When reinstall the deck the kotter pin missed the hole. During mowing the deck drop because the fronthinge pin fell out. I own a John Deere RX75. Do you know a website that would sell a unique part like this?
Greg HoffmanDuring a belt change I had to drop the deck of the mower. When reinstall the deck the kotter pin missed the hole. During mowing the deck drop because the fronthinge pin fell out. I own a John Deere RX75. Do you know a website that would sell a unique part like this?
Mitch GarstangI need the square shank drive shaft/U-joint that connects the mower deck to the tractor. also interested in chipper/vac/dump cart, garden plow, tiller, sickle mower & hydro drive/lift for same.
Email me if you have anything

RyanHello Jim,

I found this info perfect for my situation. I used these steps and some of the others to change the oil in my Craftsman/Hydro. Now I seem to have a new problem though... The lawn mower will only go in reverse?? When I put it in forward it does noth or on a hill it will start to roll. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance!


Jim BarrettRyan,

While I have not experience the problem you described, if, or should I say when, it happens to me I would check the following. These ideas are assuming that the transmission was working properly prior to changing the oil and filter.

1. Be certain that the amount of oil you added and the oil SAE is correct (10W / 30W) - It is possible you have air trapped somewhere in the transmission or if the amount of oil is inadequate the pump may be cavitating, (pulling air).
2. Check the shift linkage and be certain that the adjustment is correct. The second season for my tractor I noticed that the forward speed was dropping off and I changed the linkage to provide greater range of movement on the control arm located on the transmission. If your model is like mine you will notice that the transmission shift linkage arm (on the transmission) has 2 location holes for the shift linkage rod. The factory installation uses the hole farthest away from the pivot point for the control arm which minimizes the movement and thereby the forward and reverse speeds. I moved the shift linkage to the inside hole on the transmission shift control arm and the speed, especially forward, was back to its' perky self. Prior to moving the linkage arm, the shift knob would hit the limit of the Z slot and limit speed. Now the shift know does not bottom out, rather, the shift control in the transmission limits the movement of the shifter knob. No doubt now that the shifter is requesting full forward from the transmission.
3. Check the linkage to be sure that when you place the shift into forward that the dump valve is not engaging somehow. The dump valve is associated with the brake and is used to regulate pressure in the transmission to achieve a clutch effect. If you have noticed, when you have the transmission in full forward (normally working transmission) and the throttle full, you can ease off the brake and the tractor will gradually increase the forward speed as you continue to release the brake to full off positing. This is accomplished through a linkage tie into the transmission to push down what appears to be a little plunger or button on the transmission. It is also possible that the little plunger is sticking. keep in mind that the hydraulic force needed to move in reverse may not be as much as for forward due to internal gearing. In other words, your hydraulic pressure may be low in general and only showing its' ugly head in forward.
4. Can your tractor back-up a hill with authority? If it can then you may have an internal leak in the forward side of the internal system.

In closing, let me know when the transmission was last operation properly and what the events, and time sequence, were that led up to the problem with forward movement. Also, if one of the suggestions above helps I would appreciate an update.

Regards,
Jim B

george KI have a 16 hp sears lawn tractor w/ a hydrostatic trans. I too am having problem going up hills. Trans. is making a whining noise. Do all hydo-gear trans. have oil and filters?

thanks in advance


Jody G. StewartMy Garden Tractor just stop moving, engine will
run but want go. 20hp Automatic Transaxle, the
freewheel leaver don't make no differnce. When
the motor is off you can push the tractor front
or backword, either way it make whing or grinding
noise. What is wrong?

Jody G. StewartMy Garden Tractor just stop moving, engine will
run but want go. 20hp Automatic Transaxle, the
freewheel leaver don't make no differnce. When
the motor is off you can push the tractor front
or backword, either way it makes a whing or grinding noise. What is wrong?

ArtI have a 1998, 16 hp Sears lawn tractor Model#944.608860. With a Hydro Gear Transaxle - Model# 0310-0650.
When I start it up and slip it into gear the tractor will not move. I purged it according to the manual and still not working.
I have read some of the forum replies saying to put in hydro gear transmission oil, but I cannot find any place to do this. Even the manual does not indicate where.
Is this a sealed unit and can only be done by a technie?
Any help would be greatly appreciated...

PatI have a 2000 Sears Craftsman what kind of oil should I use 10W 40 10W 30. What about synthetic oil? Transmission model #222-3010L
jrextremely cold in MI on 2/14/07
trans was grinding (not engaging properly)
heated case with 500watt shoplight, back to normal.

haven't changed the oil/filter yet, so sounds
like a good warning on what's next for maintenance
after the weather breaks.

thanks for the post jim,
gave me exactly what I needed to know for the
problem and future maintenace.

jack rosen


ken otteni have a problem getting the new oil into the transaxle does anybody have any ideas thanks
tom MarsonI have a Sears 22.5hp Kohler lawn tractor. I bought it used with the place I bought a few months ago. I worked for years for the previous owner. I used it about an Hour and the unit came to a stop. Engine fine. No forward or reverse. I read ideas on this forum, Drained out the oil (had no new filter) put in new. Makes no difference still with wheel up on jacks they will turn slowly forward and alittle faster to rear but simple hand pressure will stop them. Linkages seem good and belts are fine. The unload- load valve make no difference still same. I heard there may be so connecting linkage between brake pedal and transmission. I cant find it try as I might.

I find a new transmission from Hydro Gear will cost 1400 dollar.

Tractor is probably worth 600 if running. I would be happy right now to buy a new transmission for 600 and adding to the 600 I paid for 1200 would have a good tractor. But to add 1400 to 600 already paid does not seem to make sense.

Help!! Tom In Wisconsin


DouglasI want to thank everyone who wrote in they were very helpful.Thank you
CurtAre you sure you drive belt pullys are still grabbing the drive belt?
JeffI had the same problems, at first mower lost forward motion after warm up. Progressively got worse until no forward motion at all. My transmission (Hydro 336-0510) has no external filter and I'm not about to pay $400 for a new one or to have someone repair it. So I took it apart myself and photographed everything as I did. I wanted to clean the filter screen because I thought it might be sucking dirt against it while running and then it would drop off after cool down. But this is what I found if you have a part diagram, one of the check plug assemblies #23 or #75 had unthreaded and dropped down. Looks like the factory even had put some type of Teflon tape on it, but it still worked loose. I removed the other one and it didn't have the tape. I'm thinking with the number of post I've see with people all with this same problem it could be a manufacturing issue. When the plug drops down it hits the point on the bypass arm and effectively puts the transmission in bypass mode and it will not move. I hope this help anyone else who wants to do it your self. I would be willing to share my pictures or experience rebuilding it if you need help.
MichaelWish me luck, I have an axle coming out when running. A clip must have come off. I removes the transaxle from the mower and will turn it over to take apart. I may be back for advice.
jay olsonMy FS5500 has never had power in reverse. I've purged the transmission several times. It has trouble backing up small inclines. HELP.
jay olsonMy FS5500 has never had power in reverse. I've purged the transmission several times. It has trouble backing up small inclines. HELP.
Tractor has only 30 hrs. on it.

MikeI have a 166768 transaxle on a 18hp sears and have found the filter part # and price. My question is how to change it? It looks to be inside the transaxle.
Deo PersaudI have a Sears Craftsman 12hp 38" lawn tractor 917.254611. Does any one knows if the transmission oil needs to be changed? I cannot see a drain plug - just a filler plug on top.
Also, after this Winter I cannot get it into reverse and one of the foward gears (I think 3rd) no matter how much I tried. I lubricate all of the lingkages. My manual does not say anything about adjusting the clutch.

Dan O'ConnorI am looking to take my Sears Auto trani apart and try to fix the problem myself. I tried responding to Poster named JEFF about this, in regard to his post of a internal defect but I don't believe my email went through....If you happen to read this JEFF please contact me at I would very much like to obtain the pictures you offered on this subject. many thanks, Dan O'
Jemse Cruz
Re: Sears Garden Tractor - Automatic Transaxle Maintenance Tips

Good day to you:

I don�t know how old this post is, but it seemed very helpful to many concern costumers. Is this post also applies to a husqvarna, model LTH2042. This riding mower hesitates to move forward or reverse and after a few attempts, it will ride without problems. It its three years old and I also sent this mower to a repair shop for a needed tune-up. I think the gear box is low in oil, however, I don�t know if your recent tips will also apply to y mower model because I have not found the drain plugs. SFC Cruz, US Army.

AndrewSame thing sears 25 horse power with the 166768 read end hydro gear, moves in foward and reverse but looses power, can hear the pump wining a bit and the fluid level is up,is changing the filer and oil going to do th trick?
AndrewSame thing sears 25 horse power with the 166768 read end hydro gear, moves in foward and reverse but looses power, can hear the pump wining a bit and the fluid level is up,is changing the filer and oil going to do th trick?
DavidI have an 18hp 42" cut that has stopped running and the freewheel lever is just moving loose. I cannot push the mower the transmission will not disengage and now the engine will not start. Ideas?
WillCan anyone say if changing the transaxle fluids fixes the "slipping" problem on hills?

On another forum someone mentioned replacing the "clutch keys". Does anyone have information on doing that?


Bibhuti malkhandi
clutch

Pat. D.Please Help, I have a 12hp craftsman lawn tractor. And I can not shift my tractor at all. No reverse & no forward. I can not move my shifter at all. What is the remendy?

THANKS, Pat D

















John FitzsimmonsWhen i start the tractor and then release the brake the engine sputters then stops,if i keep the brake locked it runs fine, can anyone help, thanks in advance
levi lewistractor runs want pull (move)
Charles KingI have a 21.5HP Craftsman lawn tractor model 917.272450. Over the winter is lost some trans oil, but seemed to work ok. Stopped to clear area and it would no longer move forward or back. Would a slight loss of oil cause this problem?
Charles KingYa!! It was only a belt problem!!!
Roger G.I have the 222-3010L in a garden tractor approx. 14 years old. Last year it just stopped. If pushed it "whines". Does anyone know if this means its shot or could it just be a fluid/filter change. Sars was definately wrong to put "maintenance free" in the owners manual. They should be paying for this..Especially how they rip you $32 for the filter.
lester hugeA friend of mine brought me a craftsman rider model # 917.273122 with a hydro-gear 222-3010L transaxle. It stopped moving forward and back with a bad whinning. Checked filter and fluis. That was ok. I dropped entire unit and found the coupler had stripped the fine splines on the transaxle side. When researching the part I found you cant buy just the coupler. You have to buy the whole "brake shaft" assembly to get it. The hydro part number is 62887. I also found this is a really bad problem with these rear ends. I will have to see if my friend wants to sink $175 for this part . This will probably be the prob if you have the same problem description he has with this model rear
JackHave a 17.5 HP 42 inch mower with automatic transmission. It runs fine in forward but has no reverse. When first started it will move a few feet, in reverse, at a snales pace but when driven a minute or so absolutely no reverse. Any thoughts?
Bradthanks for all of the tech info! Sears is less than helpful, but full of wide eyed seventeen year olds named 'Skyler' who haven't clue one of what to do. (sermon over) The whine when pushing is a worn coupler between the pump drive section and the transmission section. the coupler has two different teeth pitch, the pump side has a coarse pitch and the trans side has a much finer pitch, (lots of small teeth) this is where they fail. When the coupler is pushed all the way in, it seems to engage and not slip. A small amount of JB in the coupler and sliding all the way in should work. Failing this, TIG welding the coupler may also work. Or you could pony up $1800 for a transmission. cheers!
bucky biancoI also have transaxel that quits after half hour use on hilly terrain. Have dropped transaxel. cannot find drain plug or fill plug. Am sending unit out to Aamco tranny man to look at and see if it can be re done.
Does anyone know where these plugs are?

rooster Iwas cutting my Father's property,on sears/craftsman/lawn tractor mower. I stopped,engaged the parking brake. An Hour later, I started it, put it in Forward,and it seemed to be in a bind, and the belt started smokin,wouldn't move. I can move it,no problem. Seems the hydrostatice pulley,won't move. Anybody got a suggestion ?
dr snugglesautomatic transmissions DO NOT WORK ON HILLS

Pablo SuarezMy tractor shot down went brake release. If therare something That I can do to fixed , Tractor model # 917.274032
Pablo SuarezMy tractor shot down went brake release. If therare something That I can do to fixed , Tractor model # 917.274032
Pablo SuarezMy tractor shot down went brake release. If therare something That I can do to fixed , Tractor model # 917.274032
WillI have a 22.5 garden tractor model 917.251660, the transaxle quit working,It started slipping and belt broke,I replaced the belt and now it will not go forward or reverse,I have had it about 7 years,filter or oil has not been changed,do you think it might be the oil and filter?,Also how do you get to where the adjuster is? Thanks for any Info.
koentonI have a 22.5 sears craftsman that has the same problem,will go good in reverse but will go real slow in forward, will not go up an incline,have changed oil & filter, no change,can anyone help
model no is 917.251660

Floyd j Lippencotte jr My sears is so SLOW in reverse, can I do anything to speed it up?

jeff tiptonThe trans slips at first till it warms up in forward and inreverse. but once its warm it works just fine what could be the problem?
mike bmy sears tractor model #917 258910 wont move! i noticed a cut in the hose going to the external filter on the transaxle. will replacing the hose and a oil fill fix the problem or would it be a hydro pump issue. i guess i don't really know the difference between the two and how everything works. please help!! 11-5-12
tomw FWIW, as the transaxle warms up, the oil thins out and makes the pump and hydraulic motor less efficient. Changing the oil replaces the worn out viscosity index improvers, and restores some of the pump/motor efficiency.
If you switch to a thicker, or more viscous oil, such as a 20W-40 or 20W-50 for those units with a lot of hours on them, it may extend their useful life.
The pump and motor when new have a lot less 'leakage'. You can find out how leaky they are by trying to move the tractor when it is in gear. If it won't move at all, then they are pretty tight. On the other hand, if it can slowly ooze forward or reverse, you have leakage in the pump and/or motor, as the fluid trapped behind the pistons is leaking out on one or the other, or both. Increasing viscosity will improve that to some degree, but will not take the place of replacing or repairing the pump/motor.
tom

Dan Ihave a 26hp sears garden tractor that started eating drive belts. Pullys look ok but can't solve problem any answers?
dean smithI have a Sears Model 917-276621 with a 197942
(351-0510) Hydro-Gear transaxle. The tractor will not move forward or backwards. I replaced the transaxle & drive belt. I still have the problem. Any suggestions? Is there any adjustments to the new transaxle? I have purge the air several times.
The wheels will turn if I get them off the ground.
Thanks
dean

ryandoes my sears 16hp. 46in. command automatic 6speed have a built in cluch not the foot cluch/brake is it possible to run a belt from engine to transaxel bypassing foot cluch/brake i need help
Sours: http://www.ssbtractor.com/wwwboard/view_all.cgi?bd=lawn&msg=5150
  1. Best ultralight planes
  2. Eufy poe camera
  3. Tempo studio cost

Sears lawn tractor transaxle problem.

Cheese:

There are some tricks on their site which might apply here.

First, you enter the complete unit #. Then, in the text, it will usually show the Sears model # for the engine, trans, etc. If they show it, you go back to the model # search and plug in THAT component #. If it's broken down, you'll get the exploded view.

For instance, if you try the mower I found in the trash a few months ago (haven't got around to doing the carb BTW, will let you know), it will just show you the complete engine...with seemingly no breakdown. (try it, 917.384011). But, you'll see the engine model # listed. Plug that # in the site and you'll get all the engine parts, right down to bolts and nuts.

Sears is usually pretty good. If the vendor breaks it down, they usually do as well. They even use the vendor's part #s in their literature and their site, so if you know who it is, you can usually go to the source and avoid their markup. I did that with Waterloo Industries, Tecumseh and others. I use the Sears site as a reference, not to purchase .

 

Upvote

Sours: https://www.doityourself.com/forum/

Garden Tractor Transaxle upgrade/swap?

Got home with it about an hour ago,with gas/tolls and mower cost was about $200 total.
Up in the air whether I will rebuild the GT with my new engine and dash or as planned upgrade my DYT4000 with deck and rear diff.

This had a 25 kohler,not familiar with them and haven't checked to see if motor might be salvageable.
At a glance,pretty sure most stuff will transfer over to ours pretty easily. Everything seems to be brackets bolted to a frame. If i'm lucky they used the same frame for ease of manufacturing.
The rear plate bracket is different between them,and not sure if the GT is compatible with my bagger (glad it didn't sell).
Electric clutch looks good,be nice to have a spare for such an expensive part.


Anyway,here is quick pics.

b4a78367.jpg

c04d9368.jpg

ad8fd165.jpg
Sours: https://www.lawnmowerforum.com/threads/garden-tractor-transaxle-upgrade-swap.8871/

Transaxle lawn tractor

Craftsman Lawn Tractor: How do I replace the Transaxle Variation Belt?

@vharbuck notification just popped up :-). Bear with me and I am going to check to see what I can find out.,

Now I see what it does. Same as the old Skidoo engines (or DAF:-)

This mower is sold by Sears but actual built by Husqvarna so lets see whose axles they are using.

Okay, so it uses a General Transmission RS800P transaxle.

- Remove cutting deck (see owner manual)

- Lift up the rear of the tractor, then remove both rear wheels.

- Disconnect the variation rod (1).

- Disconnect the switch (4).

- Disconnect the bypass rod (2).

- Disconnect the brake spring (3).

- Activate and lock the parking brake, to slacken the belt , and remove it from the main pulley (5).

- Remove the mounting bolts, to separate the transmission from the frame.

We recommend to keep 2 bolts partially unscrewed, to prevent the transmission from falling.

- Lower the rear of the tractor until the transmission lightly touches the ground, then remove the 2 last bolts.

- Lift up the rear of the tractor to release the transmission.

@vharbuck this should help you out to at least get to the drive/belt.

Was this answer helpful?

YesNo

Voted Undo

Score3

Cancel

Sours: https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/434213/Craftsman+Lawn+Tractor:+How+do+I+replace+the+Transaxle+Variation+Belt
Rebuilding a lawn tractor transaxle [Part 1 of 2]

Lawn-&-Garden

Share This Article

  • Ma tondeuse autoportée STAUB est équipée d’une boite TUFF TORQ – 7A646084030 – S/N 46A/0017285.
    J’ai cassé net au niveau de la roue l’arbre de transmission (diam 19 mm).
    Peut-on encore trouver cet arbre pour remplacement (compris pièces annexes : roulement, joint, huile).

  • I’m looking to install Hydraulic Oil drain plugs on my TuffTorq 787Q0024020 John Deere X320 Riding Mower would like to include the seal kit that would incude the internal filter and the Breather rubber caps Also interested in the tufftorq Engine stand What is the price?

  • Hello, I’m sending this message in regards to my lawn mower. Currently its has a tuff torq k46 would I be able to upgrade this transaxle with a k66 or k72?

  • Can you please tell me if trans model 7A646084020 K57R-0184399 HOP PN: 437814 would be as direct replacement for 7A646084180 S/N: 46BT0000304 on Craftsman 917. 276681 rider year 2006?
    Any mods needed or direct installs?

    No parts websites, not even Sears show what trans replacement to use for their units with few parts shown actually. Corps just force us to clutter the mother earth more today than ever before so forget going green, we’re turn her rusty brown with milk jug oceans. Only 220hrs mowing 1/4 acre flat, pretty sad guys.
    Thanks

    • Hello,
      Here is the link to the transmission on our new website which shows all the parts that you can get for it. https://tufftorq.ordertree.com/catalog/partslist/view/group_id/426786/?assembly=Parts&assembly_id=1557
      I do not think swapping for a K57R will be a safe option because of the gearing rations the K57R will be faster which in turn will put more stress on the transaxle to maintain that extra force not to mention the safety problems the driver will also face. You will also run into issues of getting the fan and pulley height just right so the new unit will not put wear and tear on the pulleys of the tractor. All in all swapping for a unit that is not designed to be in the tractor is not a good idea. As to the problem of the transmission, I think changing the oil will be the best first step in finding the issue. This tractor is 15 years old so you could have oil viscosity issues that new oil in the unit will address.

  • I have a John Deere X300 purchased in 2006. The tractor pulls slower the longer I use it. I can barely finish the yard. The tractor has 430 hours on it. The transaxle model is JDHW AM134747, S/N 46BC0017316. I know Tuff Torq made the transaxle, but I’m getting conflicting information on what the replacement should be, K46BC or K57R. What is the correct transaxle? Thanks

  • My K57 transaxle is going …..errrr….gone south for the winter so to speak…2005 Broadmore…
    If I try to find a ” used transaxle”
    What years of manufacture of this model would fit my 2005 Broadmore ? Did they produce this for a number of years ?

    • Hello,
      On a Tuff Torq Transaxle you would need to check the serial number which is non a barcode sticker that is on the case close to one of the axles. normally you can see it from the rear of the tractor. What you would look for is if the serial number starts with K57A or K57K. Either of those would work.

  • I have a johndeere z465 and it pretty much stopped turning left. So i jacked up the rear end to take the weight of the mower off of it. And it turns noticeably slower turning left than right. Any ideas? The SN Number is 7D-L00040268

    • Hello,
      There are a number of issues it could be. I would start with the oil and make sure it is up to level. if it is then you will need to check linkages to make sure they are correct. On these units, there is an adjustment on the linkages so they will pull together. if the linkage is tight and not unadjusted then next is to change the oil. it is difficult since you have to remove the transmission from the tractor and flip the transmission upsidedown to drain the oil. Fresh 10W-30 will let you know if it is the oil viscosity causing the issue. If it does not get better then you will need to open it up and inspect the hydraulic parts.

  • I have a 2016 Craftsman 5500 garden tractor with a Tuff Torq hydostatic rear end serial number 46BN0199278 with just over 200 hours wondering what kind of oil and how much it takes

  • I have a lt2000 craftsman lawn tractor. It has an 918-04566b. While trying to mow it appears the engagement internally is not happening. Only in forward. Is there anything I can do to shove the main drive gear down farther to help with engagement? While I had it on the bench I found everything internally to appear to be fine but now when I try to drive the trans will free spin until I pull back on the pedal and then slowly engage and will work fine until I change pedal pressure. Is there a common issue with machine that I can’t find online? Please help me!!!!!!!

  • I have an deere LTR180 rear discharge, I’m on my second trans k46A, first was done long ago and I put drain holes and able to change fluid. I still need to remove the center discharge chute to do this ( a pain in the..) other problem not a lot of access to clean trans as chute and rear bagger inhibit cleaning. I was planning to rebuild with k57 & pump charge kit . but researching the k66 (larger pump), if the swash plate fits, the pump housing & motor being same, is this a possible rebuild? don’t know if larger fan will fit though, the K66 itself will not fit my tractor.

    • Hello,
      I am sorry but the K66 parts are not able to be put into the K46 frame. The size difference is too great that it is not possible to bolt them in.

  • I have a Tuff Torq transmission on John Deere tractor when I drive it for a little while it gets hot it quits pulling I think it’s a k46 transmission. Thanks Michael

    • Hello,
      you should check to see which transmission you have by looking at the bar code sticker on the case of the transmission that is near one of the axles. Normally you can see it from the rear of the tractor. get the serial number and I can help with troubleshooting.

  • Thank you.
    This is for a 03 simplicity broadmoor.
    Fantastic machine!!! This replacement will bolt rite in (so to speak) or is there some adapting I would have to do??? Just want to make sure I get it right the first time.
    Thank you.

    • Yes, it is a direct replacement for your K57A. It does not come with the pulley since Simplicity puts that part on themselves. You will need to reuse the old one or contact a Simplicity dealer to get a new one.

  • I am looking for a stout tractor for mowing my two acres. After doing some reading I have decided that I would like the Tuff-Torq K72 or heavier tranny. Cn you tell which tractors use this or the K92 tranny?

  • recently purchased a cub cadet big country 6×4 trying to find a secondary clutch assembly(torque converter), any help will be greatly appreciated.

  • Hi,
    I just purchased a Husqvarna TS 348 XD mower / tractor with a K66 trans axle unit. How do you tell which ratio it has a 37.22:1 or a 22.19.1 ?
    Thanks

    • Hello,
      I would need the serial number of the transmission to get you that information. It should be on a bar code sticker close to one of the axles on the case of the transmission. Normally, you can see it from the rear of the tractor.

  • Hi. Do you have a replacement transmission that is positraction for an STIGA Park Pro 18?
    It has a K62 model transmission, i don´t have with me any other references.

    • Hello,
      Swapping transmissions is fraught with all kinds of issues. Consequently, we do not have that information to give out.

  • I have a Simplicity Broadmoor tractor that needs a new hydro. I believe it is a K57 but I see the K57A and K57K listed for simplicity, would either of these units work?

    • Hello,
      The K replaced the A. So if you are getting a whole transmission you would order the K57K.

  • I wanted to find out if the K62 transaxle is capable
    For tilling . I plan to purchase a garden tractor with
    this transaxle installed in it.

  • I just purchased a transmission for my Troy bilt lawn tractor ,MTD part 918-04566b. Mtd says you build this unit for them. If so, does it come ready to run…there is no place to fill or check fluid or grease levels inside the totally enclosed unit. HELP!!!! I don’t want to try it without knowing if it is ready to use. I took a short run up the driveway and back and it makes a whining sound that the original tractor did not make .

  • Hello
    Am in the UK with an old Stiga Park pro diesel year 2002. The Tuff Torq K66B transaxle, s/n 66B-0003449. Is leaking hyd oil seriously, Not just the seals, tried several!
    Is there a specific transaxle replacement or can I use a similar one, if so which ! . Many thanks for any info..

    • Hello,
      Here is the part number for the K66B which was installed in your tractor. 7A632084511. You can use that part number to order from the distributor.

  • Do you have a replacement transmission that is positraction for a John Deere D110? Or maybe an conversion kit? It has a K46 model transmission now.

    • Hello Mr Togninalli,
      The issue with changing the specs for the transmission is that it could change a number of things and make the tractor not function in the way it is intended to function. So I cannot give information on modification information because it could render the tractor unsafe to operate. I am sorry about that.

    • Hello Mr. Auguste,

      Yes, we do make replacement transaxles for that unit. Please contact our professional service team and they will assist you in finding the repairs and parts you require. They can be reached at (866) 572-3441 or my email at [email protected] Have a great day!

  • Sours: https://www.tufftorq.com/lawn-garden/

    Now discussing:

    A trans-axle transfers the power of a lawnmower engine into forward and backward motion. It sounds like a made-up word, and I suppose it is. It’s a cross between the words transmission and axle.

    So what is a lawn mower transaxle? A mower trans-axle is a single mechanical assembly that combines the functions oftransmission, differential, and axle. The word trans-axle describes both the type of transmission and the axle set up in a vehicle.

    Combining all these separate components into one integrated unit was a stroke of genius, and in this post, you’ll find out why it’s so clever.

    Mower with trans-axle spare part

    Mower Trans-axle

    What’s A Transaxle?

    Before the trans-axle was invented, the transmission, differential, and driving axles were all separate assemblies. All these separate components do a different job (more on that later) and were as you can imagine quite bulky, getting them to fit into a small area was a challenge. 

    The trans-axle is compact and combines all the functions of the separate assemblies, its main function is to transfer engine power into forward motion. Depending on how sophisticated it is, you may have reverse motion and variable speed control. Trans-axles are the normal setup in all front-wheel-drive cars, and most people will refer to a trans-axle as the transmission or transmission assembly.

    All lawnmowers will have axles but unless they’re power-driven they won’t have a trans-axle. Most walk-behind self-drive mowers are rear-wheel driven and have the trans-axle mounted at the rear, but some craftsman mowers for example are front wheel drive and so the trans-axle is mounted at the front. Rear-drive is better for hilly ground where you need good traction, and front-drive is better for a yard with lots of shrubs and flowerbeds, they’re more maneuverable. 

    Lawn mower trans-axle

    Walk-Behind Mower Trans-axle – Mower trans-axle driven by engine pulley by means of the drive belt.

    Higher-end self-drive walk-behind mowers will have variable speed control.

    Tractor trans-axle

    Tractor Trans-axle – A lawn tractor trans-axle is located at the rear of the mower, it’s usually pretty bulky and well defined, with a fat wheel at either side. 

    Lawn tractor trans-axles are either manual or automatic just like a car. The gear-driven trans-axles have a clutch pedal and a gear selector, the brakes are also mounted on the trans-axle.

    The auto version has a variable speed forward and reverse pedal and is usually a hydro-static (oil pressure driven) or CVT type. The highly maneuverable Zero-turn mowers are a little unique in that they have two hydro-static trans-axles, one for each rear wheel. This setup helps them turn tightly, just like a shopping trolley. 

    Trans-axles are driven as you know by engine power. A belt from the engine pulley, mounted just above the blade, transfers power to the trans-axle pulley. Turning the trans-axle pulley on some basic trans-axle types causes the mower to move, on other more sophisticated types the transaxle pulley spins as soon as the engine starts up and a lever (pedal usually) needs to be operated before the mower actually moves.

    Trans-axle pulley

    TractorTrans-axleDrive Belt Pulley – Tractor mower transaxle pulley is driven from the engine crankshaft by means of the belt (Kevlar usually).

    Common Trans-axle Problems

    Mostly they’re pretty durable, belt breaking and wear are common problems on both walk behind and tractor mower trans-axles.

    Walk-behind mower transaxles are operated by pulling and holding a lever, the lever is operated by cables, and they need to be adjusted and replaced in time. Nearly all trans-axles are oiled for life, meaning you don’t need to dip or top-up, if fact on most you can’t, there’s no access.

    Hydro-static models will need an oil top-up, usually, they’ll have a plastic oil reservoir mounted on top of the trans-axle. A special oil grade is used (20w50) to top up and air will need to be purged from the system, but it’s not difficult to do.

    Tractor mower trans-axle brakes will need adjustment, pads may need to be replaced and brakes not working is common. Constant Variable Transmission (CVT) is fitted to some tractors and as they age belt wear and non-OEM fitted belts can cause lots of problems.

    What’s A Transmission?

    A mower transmission as the word suggests transmits rotational motion (turning of the engine) into linear motion (mower moving forward or backward). Mowers mostly use two types of transmissions – gear driven and hydro-static. The gear-driven type is very basic, the common manual lawn tractor transmission (the manual type usually called a gearbox) will have 5 forward gears and one reverse.

    A basic walk behind mower transmission will have one gear speed but the higher end variable speed type gearbox may have a Constant Variable Transmission (CVT) type setup or variable slip. 

    Gearbox

    Gear Driven Transmission with integrated differential

    What’s An Axle?

    The axle as you know is what the wheels of your mower are fitted to, the axle’s job is to support the weight of the mower, fix the drive assembly firmly to the mower, and hold the wheels in place. The genius of the trans-axle is that the outer case is the axle, it supports the weight of the mower and is fixed solidly to the chassis of the mower. Contained within the axle are all the oily bits, the driveshafts, and the differential.

    The differential’s job is to allow one wheel to move independently of the other, this is useful when turning corners as the outer wheels travel further than the inner wheels. The axle structure of a mower doesn’t give much trouble, and apart from removing grass and debris from the cooling fins, it’s maintenance-free.

    Tractor mower accident

    Axle – It carries the weight of the mower (normally), and enables the wheels to remain fixed to the chassis.

    Related Questions

    What does a hydro-static mower mean on a riding mower? A hydro-static riding mower refers to the type of transmission fitted. A Hydro-static mower is like an automatic car it operates on oil pressure and progressively pressing a single pedal or lever makes it move faster.

    Do I need a riding mower? If your yard is more than 3/4 acre or youare feeling strain pushing a walk-behind mower, then yes you need a riding mower or a robotic mower.

    Video Library

    Sours: https://www.lawnmowerfixed.com/whats-mower-transaxle/


    1828 1829 1830 1831 1832