A popular household craft from the 1930s to the 1960s, pin-loom weaving is enjoying a resurgence of interest thanks to Schacht Spindle Company and its 4-inch Zoom Loom. This tool allows you to weave on the go and uses only 8 yards of yarn per 4-by-4-inch square, making pin loom weaving the ultimate stash-busting technique!
All photos by George Boe.
You can make this darling Li’l Punkin by designer Deborah Bagley using pin loom weaving.
Warping the Loom
When you first look at the pin loom, it appears that some pins are missing. Imagine that those wider spaces have pins in them; you will weave around every other pin (making sure to count the wide spaces as imaginary pins).
Warp one: Place the tail end of the working yarn through the notch at corner one, then wrap the yarn back and forth across the loom from corner one to corner three around every other pin—real or imaginary (Figure 1: orange thread).
Warp two: Wrap the yarn perpendicular to the first warp layer, wrapping the yarn back and forth across the loom from corner two to corner one around every other pin (Figure 2: green thread).
Warp three: Wrap the yarn parallel to warp one. The yarn will rest between the strands in warp one. Again, wrap the yarn back and forth across the loom from corner three to corner one around every other pin (Figure 3: blue thread).
First, wrap the working yarn around the outside of the pins five times. This gives you the exact length you’ll need for your weave (Figure 4).
Thread the yarn through a 6-inch needle. Start with the needle over the loop on the outside of the pins on the W side of the loom (Figure 5). Weave *under one strand, over one strand, and repeat from * across. The second weave is worked in the opposite direction and again is over the outside loop, **under one strand, over one strand, repeat from ** across.
Continue to weave back and forth to the last pin.
To weave in the tail, weave back across the way it came, but start over two yarns before working in the under-one, over-one pattern (Figure 6).
Loom Weaving Tips and Tricks
- Do not weave in the starting tail; this can be used to identify the front of your square when joining several squares together to create a larger piece of fabric.
- The warp gets tighter as you weave, so warp the loom loosely when working with worsted-weight yarns. Warp very loosely if using bulky yarns.
- Use yarns with elasticity, such as wool or acrylic, for your first few squares. Yarns such as cotton and bamboo will be more challenging to work.
That’s it! Enjoy stash-busting with your newfound pin loom skills.
This article originally appeared in Love of CrochetFall 2017.
Pin Loom Coasters
Imagine a group of extra-terrestrials gathered in a living room. They’re poking and prodding a stack of coasters; and once condensation is explained to them and the subsequent ring on the table’s surface is demonstrated, they all start bleeping and nodding their heads. Then they ask in their inter-galactic native tongue if it would be okay to take the coasters home with them… as proof of civilized life on Earth.
I doubt this set of Pin Loom Coasters will be leaving the galaxy anytime soon, but in the interim, I’m happy to have them around! They’re fresh and summery, cute and simple, and very civilizing.
To make these pretty little squares I picked up Schacht Spindle Co’s fabulous Zoom Loom. An updated version of a classic pin loom, the Zoom Loom is thoughtfully designed with smart details that make weaving a breeze. And now my head is swimming with ideas for all the things I’ll make with my new skill: cute pockets, sachet pillows, gingham placemats, even blankets!
Enjoy weaving in the palm of your hand… And make sure you whip up a few extras for any, ahem, visitors. -Whitney
- A Zoom Loom from Schacht Spindle Co
- For the Main Yarn: 1 skein of Cascade’s Cascade 220, 100% pure new wool. We used the color Natural.
- For the Contrast Yarns: 4 skeins of Koigu KPM Needlepoint Yarn, 100% merino. We used the colors #1150, #2100, #1263, and #1503.
This is enough yarn for a total of 16 coasters, 4 in each color. (You might even be able to eke out a fifth!)
3 5/8 x 3 5/8 inches
With the Main Yarn, warp the first three layers according to the Zoom Loom’s instructions. Cut the yarn, leaving a 6-inch tail.
Leaving a 6-inch tail, wrap the Contrast Yarn around the loom 5 times. Cut the yarn.
Remove the Contrast Yarn from the loom and thread it onto the weaving needle (included with the Zoom Loom). Weave according to the instructions, starting at corner 1…
…and ending at corner 4.
Weaving in the Ends
At corner 4 (with the yarn still on the weaving needle), bring the needle over the first two warp threads and then follow the same weave pattern as the last row you wove.
Thread the other Contrast Yarn tail onto the weaving needle (at Corner 2), and bring it under the first two warp threads. Follow along the pattern of the first row you wove.
Thread the Main Yarn tail at Corner 2 onto the weaving needle. Inserting the needle between the first and second pin of the bottom row, weave over the first thread and under the next three, then follow along the pattern of the adjacent warp thread to the end of the row.
Thread the other Main Yarn tail (at Corner 1) onto the weaving needle. Weave under the first three threads, then follow along the pattern of the adjacent warp thread to the end of the row.
Here’s how the coaster looks before you remove it from the loom:
Gently remove the coaster from the loom and trim the ends on the back side.
And now make some more!
May 23, 2013 | Whit’s Knits
TAGS: Cascade Yarns, Checks + Grids, Coasters, Fingering Weight Yarn, Free Weaving Pattern, Koigu Wool Designs, Schacht Spindle Co., Worsted/Aran Weight YarnSours: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2013/05/23/whits-knits-pin-loom-coasters/
How to Weave With a Pin Loom
Weaving on a pin loom is easy and fun--once you know how to do it! If you've ever wanted to know how to weave with a pin loom, this tutorial has everything you need to know! Once you get comfortable with this method you can change it up and weave using different yarns for warp and weft, using different yarns for each layer, or weaving with two thinner yarns used together.
How to Weave With a Pin Loom
When you warp a pin loom, you’re actually laying down three warp layers. You’ll use a long needle to weave in the fourth layer, the weft layer that will lock everything in place.
Remember while setting up a pin loom that loose tension is essential for a successful weaving experience.
- Start by securing the yarn to the loom with a knot, a piece of tape, or a slot in the loom. Leave a 6” tail so that you can weave it in later. Notice that the pins on this loom are grouped in sets of 3 or 4. The first move is to bring the yarn to the left of the set of 4 pins on the lower left.
- Bring it around the 2 pins on the upper left, between pins 2 and 3 on the lower left, and up between pins 1 and 2 at the top. For the rest of this layer, you will go between pins 1 and 2 and around 3 on both top and bottom.
- When you come to the top right corner, turn toward the bottom between pins 3 and 4, then between 1 and 2 at the bottom. Weft 2: Turn the corner, wrapping around both pins on the bottom of the right edge. Cross to the left edge, passing between pins 1 and 2.
- Continue going between 1 and 2 and around 3 until you reach the top left corner and pass between 1 and 2. Turn the corner and go between pins 1 and 2 on the upper left. Notice that you’re passing between two pins that have been wrapped around on the Warp 1 layer. At the bottom, pass between pins 1 and 2.
- For the rest of this layer, go around pin 1 and pass between pins 2 and 3. When you reach the bottom right corner, go around pin 1.
- Now you’ll use the loom itself as a tool to measure out the length of yarn needed for the second weft pass. Beginning at the bottom right corner, wrap the yarn around all the pins 5 times and cut.
- Wrap around the bottom peg and bring the needle over the loop outside the pins on the left edge, under the first warp thread, and continue across. Repeat until you reach the top left corner. Weave the last pick by wrapping around the two top pins on the left edge and weaving across. It is essential to weave the last pick—it locks the whole piece in place.
- Weave in the starting and ending tails and pop the square off the loom.
After you’ve gotten the hang of weaving pin-loom squares, the next step is to join them. Use this tutorial to learn how to join two squares together using a whip stitch, and check out our Pin-Loom Resources page for other great pin-loom weaving techniques.
Posted April 19, 2016. Updated March 5, 2019.
Introducing an extremely cute companion for Spring. As you may have noticed I love making animals and owls are a particular favorite. I also love small bags and bags that have secret pockets in them, so the Pin Loom Owl Bag hits the trifecta.
It is a great size to carry a phone and has extra little pockets in the wings. Each owl takes six squares for the body, two for the wings, and two for the eyes. This makes it a great project for those special leftover yarns-- too little to use on a regular weaving project, too precious to give away. The Owl Bag is made using only a 4" pin loom (except for your choice of purse strap) and features hand felted pin loom eyes.
Follow the illustrations below to make your own Pin Loom Owl Bag.
A) Lay out the six squares for the body and join together using a double overcast stitch. You can find further information about the double overcast stitch HERE. Fold the two bottom squares in half on the diagonal and tack them in place to the inside of the bag.
B) Fold the two sides of the bag in and finish joining the bag together. Whip stitch the bottom front and back of the bag together, first tucking in the corners to create a more rounded, owl-like bottom.
C) Weave two squares for wings. This is a great place to use your fancier yarns. Take each wing square and turn down the top corner and tack the corner to the inside.
D) Line the wing up with the body so that the bottom tip of the wing is close to the bottom of the owl body. Tack the wing in place to keep it stable while you whip stitch it. Using the wing color, stitch around the two sides of the wing, leaving the folded-in top open to create a small pocket. Repeat this process with the second wing.
E) Make the owl eyes. The colored portion of each of the owl eyes was made by cutting a 1 1/2 inch circle from a felted pin loom square. See directions for felted squares below. I used yellow and pale blue for the owl's iris, but you can use whatever color you want. The owl's pupils were made by cutting a one inch circle from a black felted pin loom square or using a 1 inch button. I stitched the iris on to the bag but found that glue worked much better for attaching the pupils.
F) Add the owl beak. Using a tapestry needle with your choice of color, use satin stitch to create a beak that is approximately half inch wide at the top, tapering to a point over its three-quarter inch length.
G) Attach your handle. These owl bags were made using small bamboo rings and lightweight faux leather straps.
Making felted squares. Squares used for felting need to be constructed from 85 to 100% wool or they will not felt satisfactorily. Since you will only be felting one or two squares, you can do it easily and quickly by hand. Submerge the squares in hot water, add a small amount of shampoo or mild dishwashing soap and rub and roll them vigorously between your hands. They will very quickly begin to shrink and thicken as the fibers pull together. They only need to shrink by about 25%. When the squares measure about 3ins, rinse them out and lay them out to dry. When they are dry you will be able to cut out the circles for eyes with minimal fraying. I think a little fraying looks good because it softens the eyes, so don't worry if they are not perfect.
There is another great reason for making Owl Bags. As the world starts to get moving again and craft shows open up, Pin Loom Owl Bags make a really cute craft to sell.
While the copyright says that you are not allowed to make copies and sell my patterns, you are always welcome to make and sell your own hand woven goods.
I do hope that if you decide to make some Owl Bags that you will share some pictures with me. Margaret Stump
Loom pattern pin
Welcome to my book-turned-blog: Adventures in Pin Loom Weaving!
To get started: you might want to visit the Topical Guide, especially if you’re a beginner. If you’re looking for topics not listed in the Guide, or for specific patterns, please use the Search or Find a Pattern or Tutorial Here options located to the right. > > >
Click on the BLOG button above to see the latest weaving patterns and other useful info.
A small sampling of pin looms, including my first one (the blue Weave-It), a 4″ x 6″ Weavette, Loomette (with bars), Weave-It rug loom (which I don’t have much use for), several homemade looms, and a set of Wunderwag Industries looms (shown in white; they’re also available as triangles; see below).
If you’re looking for other pin loom sizes (2″, 4″, 6″ squares and triangles; Joe also sells a 2″ x 6″ “bookmark” loom; other sizes are in the planning stages) please consider Wunderwag Industries looms. I’ve worked with Joe to develop what I think is an excellent product. (Click on the link for ordering info.)
Wunderwag Industries looms
There was a throbbing in the temples, and not only in the temples. He heard the girls laughing behind the closed bedroom door, discussing something cheerfully. That's good, I'll drink some water calmly, he thought, and walked faster. Opening the door, he did not turn on the light, groped his glass from the shelf and turned on the tap.
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And I tried to enjoy everything that was happening, not to miss a single sensation. Then he began to rhythmically and forcefully fuck me. How nice it is when you are fucked by a healthy guy by a teenager. How tickly his balls beat against your ass and his young small hair tickles your ass.
We fell asleep and disappeared until lunchtime, and then many, many times we were engaged in satisfying each other.